FORM

A shot taken about a six weeks ago of the beautiful leafless form of a Laceleaf Maple at Bellevue botanical Garden in their Japanese Garden. Now all the Laceleafs (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum') are leafed out.

FORSYTHIA

Here's a shot of the Forsythia that bloomed in the yard a little over a month ago. I have it located with drifts of daffodils and P.J.M. Rhody's giving a great mid-march show. Once it finishes blooming it leafs out and blends in to the back of the border letting the late Spring and Summer shrubs and perennials show off.

BERGENIA

Begenia is wonderful very hardy perennial that I planted in some of my shadier locations in the garden. It has a sculptural quality and contrast nicely with many of the finer textured shrubs that are planted next to it. Spring brings bright pink flowers ( there are also white and rose-red hybrids available) surrounded with large, almost leaf lettuce like, foliage that turns red-burgundy in fall. Occasional dividing is needed in early spring to keep it at its best and you have to have the snail/slug bait handy because they will munch on this plant ( as you can see in the picture).
Native to mountains of China and the Himalayas it is remarkably hardy for such a tropical looking plant. Bergenias are no to picky about soil as long as it drains well and preforms best with a light fertilization twice in spring.

YELLOW PRIMROSES

Some pots of yellow Primroses to brighten up our
gray days here in the Pacific Northwest.

TULIPS

Years back I used to plant hundreds of tulips, especially when I lived in Central California. Up here in the Pacific Northwest I have reduced my tulip addiction to smaller quantities. All are planted in pots because it's the only way to keep the voles from getting to them. My first year in Washington I planted several hundred in large drifts throwout the garden. In perfect timing (for the voles), when the tulips were about at their peak, I started noticing large clusters leaning over and drooping. Under careful inspection I realized the problem. In a matter of 2 weeks over half the bulbs had been eaten.
So now I enjoy all my tulips in containers. Eliminating one of there favourite food sources, the voles for the most part are gone.
The past couple of years I've planted Greggii and Kaufmanniana tulips. They are shorter and stockier then many tulips and they have beautifully mottled foliage adding unique interest even when not in bloom. The above hybrid is a Kaufmanniana named 'Ancilla'.

PJM RHODODENDRON

PJM's have to be one of my favorite rhody's. It's an early bloomer, blooming around the time of the daffodils and forsythia ( all making a great combo for March colour), has smaller leaves, looking more delicate than traditional rhody's, and only get to about 4 feet (making a great foundation plant). Mine are nestled in the mixed borders giving much need winter foliage in a landscape that has gone dormant. PJM's are very cold hardy ( one of the hardiest of all the rhody's) and turn a beautiful mahogany-purple during the coldest months. After blooming the plant produces bright green new foliage contrasting harmoniously against the darker green mature leaves and have an added bonus that when crushed smell like limes.
Whats not to love about the plant.
I have also grown a white cultivar of this plant, but found it to be less vigorous.

PRIMROSE WANDA

I have a few clumps of Primrose Wanda and as far as I'm concerned it's the easiest primrose to grow in the garden. Taking very little care I have it nestled in with several other shade loving herbaceous perennials. It starts blooming the end of February and will continue until the middle of April. There are several 'Wanda' variety colours, but I have found the red-purple to be the easiest to find and simplest to grow. Primrose Wanda is one of the hardier primroses and can be grown in many areas in the United States, but it is especially suited for the moist Northwest climate. Occasional dividing after blooming is recommended if clumps start to decline or to produce more.

DAFFODILS

The Daffodils in the garden are starting to bloom and the first ones to open are the 'Dutch Masters'. They always brighten up the yard especially with all our grey skies up here in the Northwest. I only have a few varieties in the mixed borders and I'll share them with you as they bloom. When I see them blossom it always reminds me that I need to get more of them :)

BOWLES' GOLDEN GRASS

The other day when the weather was so nice I took this shot of Bowles' Golden Grass ( Miliumeffusum 'Aureum'). It's taken a few years for the clumps to form, but they look great now and it was well worth the wait. This grass starts out rather upright and by midsummer will take on its more characteristic arching form. The colour changes also from chartreuse in spring to a bright lime green by summer and adds a wonderful punch of colour in the lightly shaded parts of the garden. Located next to broad leaf forms it really shows off its delicate texture and looks its brightest planted in amongst contrasting colours of purples, blues, and fuchsias.

ANEMONE BLANDA

Today was an amazingly beautiful day with a record high of 70 degrees (typically it's 55 degrees in early March). I actually got a chance to cut the lawn for the first time this year and have been diligently working on trying to keep ahead of the weeds. All the bulbs are up and always the first to bloom in my garden are the Blanda Amemones. I have them located in small clusters next to several of the garden walkways where I can easily see them and enjoy their diminutive form.
They spread, forming small delicate groupings and bloom for roughly 6 weeks. When planting them remember to place them in a location that goes undisturbed and has great drainage. The tubers look like small bits of bark and it is very difficult to tell the top. Soak the bulbs for a few hours, and last seasons growth scares will be able to be seen. Blandas come in many colours from whites, blues, and purples to pinks and lavenders.